Barcelona Photoblog

August 28, 2025

Cines Verdi: The Cinematic Heart of Gràcia

Barcelona is a city where tradition and modernity interact constantly. While Antoni Gaudí’s Sagrada Família or the Gothic Quarter often take the spotlight, the real character of Barcelona lies in its neighborhoods. Among these, the Gràcia quarter stands out for its history, independent spirit, and cultural life. It is here, on Carrer de Verdi, that one finds Cines Verdi, an institution that has become more than a cinema: it is a cultural reference point for the entire city.


The Neighborhood: Gràcia’s Independent Spirit

Originally an independent village until annexed to Barcelona in 1897, Gràcia has preserved its identity. Narrow streets, local squares, and strong neighborhood associations maintain its communal character. It is bohemian, authentic, and less overwhelmed by mass tourism than other parts of the city. Gràcia values artistic expression, small businesses, and cultural initiatives rooted in community.

This background helps explain why Cines Verdi thrived here. The cinema’s dedication to films in original version (VO), its focus on independent and international productions, and its refusal to follow the commercial multiplex model fit perfectly with Gràcia’s sense of authenticity and cultural independence.


Origins: From Spectacle Hall to Cinema

The story of Verdi begins in 1893, when the Fomento para la Protección de Gracia opened a hall for public spectacles on Carrer de Verdi. The building has taken many forms, reflecting both the neighborhood’s evolution and the city’s history.

  • Civil War years (1936–1939): The venue was used as a children’s canteen, showing how cultural spaces were repurposed in times of hardship.
  • Postwar period: The upper floor became El Gran Salón Verdi, a dance hall, providing a social outlet during repression and scarcity.

It was only later, in the second half of the 20th century, that the space fully became a cinema. By the 1980s, Cines Verdi was already a reference point for cinephiles seeking films outside the mainstream.


The Expansion: Verdi and Torrijos

In 1995, Cines Verdi expanded with new screens on Carrer de Torrijos, reinforcing its role in Gràcia. Unlike conventional multiplexes, Verdi maintained its character as a cultural cinema. Its five screens on Verdi and additional ones on Torrijos allow for varied programming.

The cinema has received two Sant Jordi awards and the European Cinema Award (2002), which recognized its contribution to European film culture.


What Makes Cines Verdi Different

  1. Original Version Programming: In a country where dubbing is the norm, Verdi’s commitment to subtitled screenings is crucial. It attracts international residents, language learners, and locals who value authenticity.
  2. Diverse Selection: Independent European films, auteur cinema, Latin American productions, and documentaries find their place here, alongside selected mainstream titles. The cinema offers an alternative to Hollywood dominance.
  3. Cultural Environment: Just steps away, the Café Salambó acts as a counterpart. Named after Flaubert’s novel, Salambó has long been a meeting point for writers, critics, and film lovers. It also hosts the Salambó Prize, which rewards the best book of the previous year, bridging literature and cinema.

Verdi in the Context of Barcelona’s Cinema Scene

Barcelona has a long film history. The first Spanish film with a plot, Riña en un café (1897), was directed here by Fructuós Gelabert. The city is also home to the Filmoteca de Catalunya, since 2012 located in El Raval, with screenings, archives, and exhibitions. Another landmark, Cinemes Méliès, is known for its focus on original-language screenings.

Even within this rich landscape, Cines Verdi holds a special place. It combines the accessibility of a neighborhood cinema with the standing of an international cultural venue. For many residents, a film at Verdi is not just entertainment but part of a cultural habit.


Gràcia’s Cultural Surroundings

Cines Verdi is tied to the wider cultural fabric of Gràcia. Around it, one finds:

  • Casa Vicens, one of Gaudí’s early works, mixing Moorish and modernist elements.
  • Casa Fuster, a Domènech i Montaner building once called “the most expensive house in Barcelona.”
  • Plaça del Nord, with the Lluïsos de Gràcia, a socio-cultural association founded in 1879.
  • Independent shops such as Cinemascope, dedicated to cinema memorabilia.

These surroundings show that Verdi is not an isolated venue but part of a larger cultural ecosystem that makes Gràcia a center of intellectual and artistic activity.


Recognition and Endurance

Cines Verdi’s awards reflect its importance. The European Cinema Award (2002) placed it among Europe’s cultural landmarks. The cinema has become an emblem of Barcelona’s commitment to cultural diversity and openness.

Despite challenges—ranging from the Spanish Civil War to the current pressure of streaming platforms—Verdi has survived. Its strength comes from loyal audiences and its ability to adapt while staying true to its principles.


Barcelona’s Broader Cultural Narrative

The existence of Cines Verdi also reflects Barcelona’s evolution. Since the Universal Exhibition of 1888 and the urban plan of Ildefons Cerdà, the city has tried to combine tradition with innovation. Verdi embodies this blend: rooted in local identity but open to international culture.

Barcelona today is a UNESCO Creative City of Literature, home to countless festivals, museums, and cultural institutions. But it is places like Cines Verdi that ensure culture is not reduced to monuments or events but remains a shared, everyday experience.

Cines Verdi is more than a cinema. It is a symbol of Barcelona’s cultural resilience, an anchor of authenticity in a globalized world. In Gràcia, where independence and creativity thrive, Verdi represents the continuity of a tradition that values film as art, language as identity, and cinema as a communal act.

To watch a film at Verdi is to take part in over a century of history, to connect with a neighborhood that resists superficiality, and to embrace a Barcelona that is both local and international at the same time.

August 15, 2025

Barcelona Cathedral’s Pietà: A Gothic Masterpiece with a Secret Past

Barcelona Cathedral's Pieta



Hi friends! Today, we stroll down one of those shadowed medieval streets that can still surprise even the most seasoned Barcelona walker — el carrer de la Pietat. It’s a place where history is carved into stone… or, in this case, molded in resin.

The famous tympanum that’s not what it seems


Visitors flock to the Gothic Quarter for its cobblestone charm, intricate façades, and the hushed coolness of cloisters. Right where carrer de la Pietat meets the side of Barcelona’s Cathedral, above a sealed doorway into the cloister, you’ll see a striking relief: Mary cradling the lifeless body of Christ, symbols of the Passion clustered around them, and, kneeling humbly in the corner, the canónigo Berenguer Vila — the man who commissioned the piece in the late 15th century.

For decades, most assumed they were looking at the real medieval carving. In truth, what you see today is a replica. The original — carved in oak by the German sculptor Michael Lochner — rests safely inside the Museu Diocesà.

From Gothic Germany to the streets of Barcelona


Michael Lochner wasn’t just any itinerant craftsman. Arriving in Barcelona in the late 1400s, he brought with him the stylistic language of German Gothic art — sharp folds in garments, expressive faces, and a heightened emotional realism. Alongside the Pietat, Lochner is credited with works inside the Cathedral choir and a now-lost retable of Sant Pere for Premià de Dalt, destroyed during the Spanish Civil War.

The Pietat was once in place over this very door until one night, decades ago, thieves tried to prise it from the wall. The plot was foiled by the Guardia Urbana, but the scare convinced Cathedral officials to replace it with a resin copy. Some whisper the attempt bore the signature of the infamous art thief Erik el Belga, though the link has never been officially proven.

Carrer de la Pietat: a medieval artery


Carrer de la Pietat is more than just the stone backdrop to this story. Winding along the northern flank of the Cathedral, the street owes its name to the very sculpture we’ve been talking about. Historical records place it as part of the medieval precinct known as the barri de la Sede, home to clergy, scribes, and artisans linked to the Cathedral works.

In medieval times, the street was a service corridor between the ecclesiastical quarter and the episcopal palace. Here, merchants brought stone, wood, and supplies; choristers and canons passed between the cloister and their dwellings. Narrow, shaded, and somewhat secretive, carrer de la Pietat retains that hushed quality today — a whispering path between centuries.

The cloister: oasis and symbol


The cloister of Barcelona Cathedral, accessed from the main nave or through side doors like the one beneath the Pietat, is a world apart from the bustle outside. Built between the 14th and 15th centuries, it surrounds a garden filled with palms, orange trees, and the famous gaggle of white geese — 13 in number, symbolizing the age at which Saint Eulàlia was martyred.

For clergy, the cloister was a spiritual and practical center — a place for processions, chapter meetings, and quiet contemplation. For us modern visitors, it is a stone-walled time capsule. Standing inside, you can almost hear the echo of sandals on flagstones and the distant peal of bells.

Stories in stone


The Pietat portal isn’t the only sculptural treasure along this street. Look up and you’ll spot gargoyles — dragons, grotesques, and even more playful creatures — jutting from the buttresses. Their function was practical (to drain rainwater) but their artistry, like Lochner’s work, was deeply tied to the imagination of the time.

Other chapels inside the cloister bear coats of arms from Barcelona’s guilds, reminders that the Cathedral’s grandeur was as much a civic as a religious endeavor.

A walk worth slowing for


For photographers, carrer de la Pietat offers layered perspectives — arches framing arches, light filtering between stones, and the drama of the Pietat relief catching the sun at certain hours. Knowing that the carving is a replica doesn’t diminish its power. In fact, it adds a layer of intrigue: a secret between the city and those who care to look closer.

And here lies the essence of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter — beauty woven with stories, some whispered in archives, others hidden in plain sight.

So next time you pass the Cathedral, slip down carrer de la Pietat. Pause before the Pietat. And think of the hands that shaped it five centuries ago, the near-loss that prompted its retreat indoors, and the quiet street that still bears its name.

August 11, 2025

Casa de les Punxes in Barcelona – Modernisme Architecture and History

Casa Terradas or Casa de les Punxes, Barcelona

Casa Terradas (Casa de les Punxes) Eixample, Barcelona. Commissioned 1903–05. Josep Puig i Cadafalch. Heritage monument. 

Introduction 


At the acute angle formed by Avinguda Diagonal, Carrer Rosselló, and Carrer Bruc in Barcelona’s Eixample stands Casa Terradas, universally known as Casa de les Punxes—“house of the spikes.” Its urban presence is unmistakable: six conical towers capped by spike-like finials give it a fortified silhouette that dominates the surrounding grid. Yet its architectural logic is far more than decorative. It asserts itself as an emblem of Modernisme, medieval revival, Catalan identity, and technical innovation—a building as storied in symbolism as in structure. 

This article dissects its origins, design, ornament, restoration, and current function. 

Patronage and Purpose 


In 1903, Bartomeu Terradas i Mont, prominent textile industrialist, tasked Josep Puig i Cadafalch with unifying three adjacent family houses—each designated for a daughter: Àngela, Rosa, and Josefa—into a single coherent structure on a triangular lot. This challenge required both spatial ingenuity and symbolic finesse: the result was a singular facade anatomically divided yet visually unified, evoking medieval citadels and addressing the urban geometry with compositional authority. 

Architecture and Structural Innovation


Completion and Site 


Built circa 1905, Casa de les Punxes defied the rigidity of Cerdà’s Eixample. Its triangular base required adaptive volumetry: Puig i Cadafalch grouped façades into six cylindrical towers (punxes), forging a strong vertical rhythm that softens the acute lot’s constraints. 

Structural Rationality 


Departing from traditional masonry, Puig i Cadafalch employed cast-iron columns and beams at ground level, enabling open, flexible interiors suited for commercial purposes. On the rooftop, tensioned metal rods suspend the floor slabs (forjados), redistributing loads to ceramic perimeter walls—an astute solution marrying solidity with economy. Materials include exposed brickwork, carved stone balconies and tribunes, glazed ceramic cupolas, forged iron balconies, and textured stained glass—making the building materially layered and stylistically distinct. 

Ornament, Symbolism, Artisan Contributions 


Spike Towers (Les Punxes) 


The six towers define the building’s nomenclature and silhouette. Their design crosses Gothic revival and local medievalist expression, emblematic yet structurally significant. 

Catalan Emblems 


Central to the facade is a large ceramic panel depicting Sant Jordi slaying the dragon, accompanied by the inscription “Sant Patró de Catalunya, torneu-nos la llibertat”. Clear evidence of political identity embedded in architecture. 

Personal Iconography 


The Terradas sisters each receive visual recognition: an angel for Àngela, a rose wreath for Rosa, and a heraldic device for Josefa. Supplemental decorations—pomegranates, daisies, apples, clovers, mythic forms—extend the narrative into allegory and natural symbolism. 

Artisan Collaborations 


  • Enric Monserdà executed much of the facade’s sculptural ornamentation, including ceramic panels and furniture. 
  • Alfons Juyol i Bach contributed figurative architectural decoration. 
  • Vidrieria Amigó i Cia provided intricate, textured leaded stained-glass panels at the entry featuring vegetal motifs. 
  • Manuel Ballarín i Lancuentra forged iron fixtures. 

Heritage Recognition and Restoration 


In 1975 (some sources cite 1976), the Catalan government declared Casa de les Punxes a National Historic Monument, later catalogued as a Bé Cultural d’Interès Nacional. Legal protection acknowledged its architectural, historic, and cultural significance. 

Between 1991 and 2003, a full restoration was commissioned by La Caixa and Colonial. Architects Francesc Xavier Asarta and Albert Pla led the work, which revived original spaces, clean-lined surfaces, and structural clarity. In 2004, the project received the Urban Land Institute Europe Award for Excellence, recognized as a benchmark in heritage intervention. 

Public Access, Transformation, and Current Use 


In August 2016, one of the three residential units opened as a museum dedicated to Puig i Cadafalch, Modernisme, and the building itself. Visitors accessed the restored ground floor, noble floor, and rooftop, where the punxes’ form and views over Diagonal and the Eixample offered rare spatial clarity. 

The museum closed in 2020. Since then, Casa de les Punxes has operated as a coworking and events venue, managed by Cloudworks. Public access is now limited and conditioned on private or corporate engagements. 

Visual and Photographic Reflection 


The building’s formal language—vertical towers against the Eixample grid, textural interplay of brick and ceramics, emblematic sculpture, and iron filigree—makes it a prime subject. Consider these photographic approaches: 

Frontal composition, capturing the towers and facade compartments, juxtaposed against Diagonal’s orthogonality. 

  • Detail shots of ceramic panels—Sant Jordi and sisters’ motifs—highlight layered symbolism. 
  • Ironwork close-ups, especially stained glass and balconies—evidence of artisanal depth. 
  • Roof terrace panorama, framing the punxes in skyline context, especially at golden hour. 

Significance in Catalan Modernisme and Architectural History 


Casa de les Punxes occupies a crucial position in Catalan architectural evolution. Its medieval revivalist vocabulary and emblematic symbolism are tempered by industrial technology and structural clarity. Some scholars view it as the final expression of Modernisme, before Noucentisme’s turn toward classical restraint. Its layered meanings—modern structure, medieval reference, Catalan identity—render it a building of multi-temporal resonance. 

Casa Terradas / Casa de les Punxes is not merely a building but a compact narrative. One of the most evocative symbols of this beautiful city!
Web Analytics